Author Topic: Modded MingDa MC34-AB (Read 58498 times)

crazikid · « **Reply #60 on:** July 30, 2011, 07:15:02 AM »

further thought you could ask mingda for just the amp without tubes.. cuz the stock tubes are rough and need replacing.

mcb · « **Reply #61 on:** July 30, 2011, 11:00:35 AM »

Yep crazikid, good thinkin'

kajak12 · « **Reply #62 on:** July 30, 2011, 01:25:21 PM »

Quote from: mcb on July 30, 2011, 11:00:35 AM

Yep crazikid, good thinkin'

It is good thinking besides one problem unless a buyer has valves to put in he wont know if amp is faulty or will develop a fault after a few hours running

flemo · « **Reply #63 on:** August 17, 2011, 06:16:39 PM »

The next thing I intend to do with my Mingda is upgrade the chokes when the values have been determined.

In the mean time the current dropbox is too small and with Kajak12's Mingda project about to commence I have been playing around with a traditional tube amp box or surround to allow all the bits (new chokes) to fit inside. Using offcuts I came up with this concept so far. The idea is the amp will just drop straight into the frame and only the power switch and volume knob will have to be removed and reinstalled when secured in place. I ran out of stuff so I'll have to go to Bunnings to buy some bits then give it a try to see if it works. If it does work the plan is to build the proper ones with solid jarrah.

tuyen · « **Reply #64 on:** August 17, 2011, 06:40:08 PM »

Not exactly sure how it will look when fitted, but I know it will be sure to be impressive!

Bit of varnish or gloss would suit?

Looking forward to see how it looks with the amp fitted (even if temporarily).

Great stuff Pete

flemo · « **Reply #65 on:** August 17, 2011, 07:18:38 PM »

Hi Tuyen,

The legs will be removed from the Mingda and the amp will drop into the box from the top. The hole in the front is for the volume knob and the top edge of the box will also be the top edge of the amp. So, it will look like a normal tube amplifier, well supposed to anyway!! l The sides of the Mingda will covered with the wooden box. Only the top plate (and tubes and transformers) will be visible. The scalloped bit at the back is to allow access for the power connections, binding posts and input without having to rip them out and reinstall them.

Pete

mcb · « **Reply #66 on:** August 17, 2011, 07:29:58 PM »

Good work Pete,

It will be interesting to see how much work is involved in removing the legs from the amp.

Looking forward to the next instalment.

kajak12 · « **Reply #67 on:** August 17, 2011, 07:48:00 PM »

Quote from: mcb on August 17, 2011, 07:29:58 PM

Good work Pete,

It will be interesting to see how much work is involved in removing the legs from the amp.

Looking forward to the next instalment.

4 screws per leg mcb

mcb · « **Reply #68 on:** August 17, 2011, 08:10:40 PM »

Quote from: kajak12 on August 17, 2011, 07:48:00 PM

Quote from: mcb on August 17, 2011, 07:29:58 PM
Good work Pete,

It will be interesting to see how much work is involved in removing the legs from the amp.

Looking forward to the next instalment.
4 screws per leg mcb

Thanks Mario, I was thinking about the access to the screws. From memory, a cranked shaft screw driver will be needed (and even then 90 deg of movement is not available), unless half the contents are removed.

flemo · « **Reply #69 on:** August 17, 2011, 10:43:29 PM »

maybe a screwdriver bit attached to a small ratchet wrench might be able to access to screws?

kajak12 · « **Reply #70 on:** August 17, 2011, 10:53:44 PM »

Quote from: flemo on August 17, 2011, 10:43:29 PM

maybe a screwdriver bit attached to a small ratchet wrench might be able to access to screws?

I think you might have to take a few audio notes out to get access

kajak12 · « **Reply #71 on:** August 17, 2011, 11:02:27 PM »

Flemo and mcb one more cap needs replacement with jensen i missed this one doh

flemo · « **Reply #72 on:** August 17, 2011, 11:39:11 PM »

is it the blue cap you're referring too? What is the cap value?

kajak12 · « **Reply #73 on:** August 18, 2011, 08:25:41 PM »

Quote from: flemo on August 17, 2011, 11:39:11 PM

is it the blue cap you're referring too? What is the cap value?

Yes flemo its the blue one 100uf 500v your replacement will be 150uf jensen 500v if you choose to accept the mission.

mcb · « **Reply #74 on:** August 19, 2011, 02:51:54 PM »

Thanks for the update KJ12. Are you planning on placing order for Jensens?

kajak12 · « **Reply #75 on:** August 19, 2011, 06:02:38 PM »

Quote from: mcb on August 19, 2011, 02:51:54 PM

Thanks for the update KJ12. Are you planning on placing order for Jensens?

In the next week or so

kajak12 · « **Reply #76 on:** August 21, 2011, 12:45:38 AM »

Quote from: mcb on August 19, 2011, 02:51:54 PM

Thanks for the update KJ12. Are you planning on placing order for Jensens?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JENSEN-Hi-voltage-electrolytic-capacitor-220uf-500V-/320675889151?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa9c5bfff

220uf will do the trick nicely ordering soon

flemo · « **Reply #77 on:** August 21, 2011, 09:24:56 PM »

I now have completed the prototype box for the Mingda amp. I'm so glad I decided to do this as there were some problems encountered when fitting the box with things like the on/off switch, volume pot and securing the box to the amp. Trying to install the amp into the box and work around the delicate internal components and solder joints was quite a frustrating and protracted exercise. Speaking of difficult, removing the front legs was a PITA, particularly with the volume pot having only a small tolerance of movement and quite difficult to remove due to the surrounding components.

Anyhoo, this traditional style box/surround provides twice as much storage space for the Jensen caps and allows me plenty of space to install vintage chokes.

I also removed the Triode/Ultralinear swith from the front panel and have installed it inside the box until i can figure out how to bypass it so it will permanently be in Triode mode.

Unfortunately a lot of work went into this prototype and a bit annoyed the plywood looks quite ugly with black stain and single coat of sealer. I had it stained jarrah and it looked better and should have left it instead of black.

flemo · « **Reply #78 on:** August 21, 2011, 09:35:33 PM »

Here's some more pics of the ugly box......

At least it now looks like a traditional tube amplifier and hopefully soon with the jarrah box it will look as good as it sounds???

I'm also thinking of upgrading the volume knob too, maybe something with some bling like the Supratek knobs?

kajak12 · « **Reply #79 on:** August 21, 2011, 09:39:00 PM »

Placing order in now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its like a hsv i just want one

magic flemo me and you are going into business

Author Topic: Modded MingDa MC34-AB (Read 58498 times)

crazikid

tuyen